by Allison Ten Eyck
for The 1960’s
The 1960s decade was full of social change with fashion that reflected what was happening, which has continued to live on into the fashion of the 21st century. In the 60s, people started to break away from the social norms of fashion and began experimenting. Women started to throw away ideologies of what was “proper.” All over America, skirts got shorter, bangs got blunter, and colors became brighter. This time was also a fashion revolution for men. They grew their hair longer and traded in their three piece suits for jeans, vests, t-shirts, and bomber jackets. The 1960s were a time when fashion truly became a tool for art and self expression in America. Through the power of fashion, Americans were representing youth, civil rights, feminism, and rock n’ roll.
During WWII, many women started to get out-of-the-home jobs in order to help produce goods for the war-time booming economy. When the war ended, women realized that they like having a life outside of the home and that it was liberating to be making their own money, decisions, and gaining their own interests out in the world. Because more young women were outside of the house, it meant that they got a chance to breakaway from their parent’s outdated fashion sense to develop their own fashion styles which created the first youth culture market, and marks the rise of feminism in fashion. In the 1960s, designers noticed the fashion revolutions that were going on and began to design specifically for the youth culture.
During this decade, the most popular fashion style that rose with the majority of the everyday American woman was called mod which was an abbreviation for modernist style. In a few words, this style can be described as geometric, bold, and chic. One of the most influential designers of the 60’s was a British designer Mary Quant. She is a mod designer and the mother of the mini skirt who captures feminism in every design. This fashion genius is responsible for creating staple pieces that belong in every woman's closet. Some of her most popular were the Peter Pan collar, A-line dress, and most notably the mini skirt. Quant was inspired by the times and the uproar of youth culture and began to experiment with dress and skirt hemlines. Her goal was to “create a look as vibrant and revolutionary as the times. She named the result (the mini skirt) after the Mini Cooper, which she said has the same type of energy” (Fordham University 1). Although she created the miniskirt she “doesn’t like to take credit for it” and says that it’s “something that was started by the young people and feels that it should belong to them,” showing a true reflection of the revolutionary and youthful spirit of the 1960s (Fordham University 1).
While Mary Quant influenced and inspired women with her designs, it’s hard to think of 1960s fashion without thinking of Jackie Kennedy, one of the most influential icons in American fashion history. Jackie always looked prim and polished—even as she experienced tragedy. She was famous for her pillbox hats, big dramatic sunglasses, and brightly colored dresses and skirt suits. Her style was fresh and professional. A similar fashion icon was Audrey Hepburn, on and off screen. In the film Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Hepburn introduced another staple in every woman's closet: the little black dress. Off screen she was just as chic but with a more casual flair. She often sported street style of Capri trousers, ballet flats, and fitted or cropped t-shirts, an effortlessly cute and comfortable look still worn today by many women.
On the edgier side of women’s 1960s fashion lived Twiggy, Edie Sedgwick, and Yoko Ono. Twiggy was a very famous model, given this nickname in reference to her thin build. She blew up after she decided to chop off her blonde locks for a short pixie haircut. She also was famous for her thick black eyelashes and her boyish style, especially because in the 60s men and women started to dress alike for the first time. Similar to Twiggy’s thick eyelashes and pixie haircut, Edie Sedgwick was known for her dramatic winged eyeliner (a style that fashionistas hold near and dear to their hearts) and a cropped platinum haircut. Sedgwick was a classic case of the “good girl gone bad” and has been labeled as the original IT girl. She was a fashionista who wore mod shift dresses, bold prints, and large chandelier earrings. Sedgwick’s bold style and fiery attitude made her undoubtedly fierce . Out of all these fashion icons that frequently rocked mod looks, Yoko Ono was the most mod of all. Known for wearing only black and white, she often wore A-line mini skirts, fitted minimalistic tops, big floppy hats, and her staple knee high boots. All of these women are examples of strong fashionistas reflecting the time of fashion risks and feminism whose legacy lives on.
Women’s fashion is often the focal point of the public, but the 1960s was the decade that men’s fashion really made a breakthrough. With the new youth culture that developed, men did not want to be dressing in full suits like their dads, or if they did, they added their own twist. This being said men’s mod fashion began to flourish. Some of the most distinguished mod men in fashion were The Beatles and Steve McQueen. The Beatles were a perfect mix of mod meets rock n’ roll. Starting out, The Beatles often wore tailored suits, but all had boyishly long hair which kept getting longer. Throughout their careers, the band was influenced by hippie counterculture and experimented with LSD, which not only inspired their music but also their fashion sense. The band started to wear brighter colors and bell bottom pants. The band members often still wore a tailored blazer and trousers but added a ruffled blouse or brightly colored t-shirt underneath. Like The Beatles, actor Steve McQueen was a fan of a mod tailored style, but wore less bold colors. When off camera, McQueen wore jeans, sneakers or boots, a t-shirt or sweater, and a tailored blazer to top his look off. McQueen’s style is a classic example of men’s mod fashion and a 60s heart throb.
Speaking of heart throbs, John F. Kennedy was also a pioneer in American men’s fashion. JFK is known as the most stylish president that American has ever had. When he was not in the Oval Office, he would dress casually and mostly wear khaki pants, polo shirts, crewneck sweaters, and loafers or boat shoes. Kennedy was actually the pioneer of the men’s preppy chic style that is still worn today. One could refer to JFK has having the “original frat boy style.” This style is commonly featured today from designer brands such as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Lacoste.
In the summer of 1967, the youth of America was tired of the hate and social issues the U.S. was riddled with and many decided to drop out of school, move to San Francisco, and experiment with drugs, freedom, and sexuality; this sparked the “Summer of Love.” Although this was only for a summer, it would go on to imprint the messages of peace and love into Americans, and would live on in generations to come. The hippie and rock n’ roll culture and the LSD experimentation that often came along with it inspired designers and activists to experiment with their own fashion. This summer resulted in men and women dressing more and more alike. Men grew their hair long, women wore bell bottom pants, and everyone was wearing bright colors and bold patterns.
Jeanne Rose was a participant of the hippie counterculture and moved to San Francisco to participate in the madness and unity. She started to take LSD and made clothes for herself, her boyfriend, and her daughter based on the trips she experienced. Rose quickly became known around San Francisco as Jeanne the Tailor. After taking LSD trips Rose says, “‘I remember being very conscious of how things felt, of how things looked, of the trees around me.’ Rose remembers, ‘I realized how important it was for me to have natural things, to create things, consciously”’ (Bravo 2). She took her experiences of what she saw and felt and took them to a personal place through creativity. With this inspiration, Rose designed bright pink and green flowing shift dresses, boldly patterned bell bottom pants and button up shirts, and the occasional poncho. Jeanne Rose’s designs became so popular within the San Francisco community that she went on to design clothing for bands such as The Grateful Dead and Jefferson Airplane.
The Summer of Love and rock n’ roll went hand and hand in the 1960s. Bands were creating activism through music and also developed impeccable style. Some rock n’ roll icons whose styles were influenced by the hippie counterculture are Cher, Jimi Hendrix, and Janis Joplin. Cher was made a 60s fashionista among American society. She was famous for her long dark hair, blunt bangs, eyeliner rimmed all the way around her eyes, and use of bold prints and colors. Cher’s classic style will forever be an excellent representation of the average Summer of Love inspired fashion sense embracing peace, love, and individuality.
Jimi Hendrix was one of the greatest guitar players and rock n’ roll icons of the 1960s. With his classic curls, bandanna headbands, oversized jackets and bold color choices, his music obviously transferred straight into his fashion choices. Hendrix may be the most extraordinary fashion icon of the 60s. He often wore brightly colored pants, printed button-down blouses, medallion necklaces, and a big printed jacket on top of that. Hendrix style was androgynous, colorful, daring, and, most of all, the image of 60s rock n’ roll.
Janis Joplin was quite the fashion risk taker. Like most, she wore bright colors and prints, but she brought in different and interesting textures into her style (she was not afraid to mix textures). Joplin could be seen walking down the street in blue velvet pants, a big fur coat, oversized round sunglasses, frizzy teased hair, and strings of beads around her neck. The Summer of Love was about peace, love, freedom, and sexual liberation all of which was represented in Joplin’s fashion choices. Her free spirit and wildly textured style made her the embodiment of The Summer of Love.
The style and influence of the 1960s has stood the test of time. This decade was the most impactful for American fashion and still has heavy influence over modern American style. Women’s mod style gave us the shift dress, the mini skirt, and the Peter Pan collar. As of recently in women’s fashion other 60s classics are making a comeback such as the thigh high boots, and big geometric sunglasses. In men’s fashion, the preppy casual look has always stuck, and why wouldn’t it? It is an easy and comfortable go-to that always looks clean and put together. The 60s also brought us the fashionable bomber jacket and t-shirt look that is frequently worn today by American men.
The Summer of Love and rock n’ roll influence style was one of the most exciting fashion phases of the decade, which has stayed in American culture into the 21st century. These trends have especially made a comeback within the last year. In today’s fashion, jean waistbands keep getting higher, pant legs are once again getting wider, and one sees more and more boldly striped t-shirts, velvet blouses, and bell sleeve dresses and tops. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of The Summer of Love, Levi’s launched a Summer of Love inspired collection called “Forever Changes.” This collection featured denim that Levi’s sold from the summer of 1967 and also other denim styles inspired by the hippie culture and DIY spirit of the decade. During the summer of 1967, Levi’s released the “Crazy Legs” collection which featured white, straight leg denim with vibrant graphics on the legs. The most famous from this collection is a pair of jeans that read “Love” down one leg and “Trip” down the other. In the Levi’s relaunch they brought these jeans back, but in an interview with WGSN Insider about the collection, the Forever Changes designer, Paul O’Neill, said that during the Summer of Love Levi’s did not actually have any bell bottom jeans for sale. Although Levi’s did not actually launch bell bottom jeans until 1969, this did not stop the creative community of hippies from creating their own. O’Neill states that he has ‘“come across a lot of customized 501s or 505s that have had pieces inserted into the bottom opening to create a boot cut or bell bottom. Also one pair we found had cut offs at the knee and had the top part (thigh to knee) of another pair flipped upside down and sewn on the end to create a natural bell bottom”’ (Trotman 4). Levi’s took direct inspiration from these DIY Levi’s collected over the years and put them into their “Forever Changes” collection. The choices Levi’s has made for this collection honors the youthful free spirit and creativity of the Summer of Love in a modern way.
Looking back on 1960s fashion, it is exciting to see the different trends that existed and the ones that have survived for over 50 years. The art of fashion is all about expression. The way that fashion evolved in America in the 1960s is a direct reflection of the times. The 1960s in America was a time of rebellion, passion, growth, and creativity. People used the fire inside of them to truly develop their own individuality in the 60s. The decade encouraged people to find their own sense of self outside of the house, use their passion and strength to say “I don’t like the way things are going and I’m going to do something about it” and tap into their emotions and experiences to create something beautiful.
From Jackie Kennedy’s polished mod style to Jimi Hendrix’s rock n’ roll music and psychedelic look, 60s fashion reflected the time and the lives being led with revolutionary style. The sense of individuality, youth, and expression, along with various social groups in the 1960s, makes this decade the most impactful time for fashion in America.
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